RE Quick Disconnects For The TJ
By Shawn Pagan

1.        Purchase @ least 4 additional ½” body washers you may or may not need them, but if you do….

·         Note: Everyone I know has needed at least 2 additional washers then what comes with the kit from Rubicon Express, I recommend 6 additional washers (4 that you need to purchase and the original two that come off your existing lower sway end link bolt.

2.        Tools Needed (real basic – nothing fancy, although a vice becomes real handy)

·         Ratchet (although one could do this with simple wrenches, but it would be tougher)

·         Breaker Bar

·         11/16” socket

·         5/8” socket

·         ¾” socket

·         ¾” box end wrench

·         15 mm socket

·         19 mm socket

·         #56 Torx socket (#55 works okay if you use it to simply hold the Torx bolt and remove the nut with a ratchet.  I note this because most sets do not include a #56)

·         Wood block (old piece of two by four or anything solid, but soft)

·         Hammer (a small body sledge works great)

·         Small vice

·         Silicone Lube (WD-40 will work but some people don’t recommend it for urethane)

3.        Remove front frame cover

·         2 Bolts Each Side 3/8”

4.        (Starting on the drivers side) Unbolt top of sway bar end link

·         should be a 5/8” nut

·         1 nut each side

5.        Repeat passenger side

6.        Unbolt lower sway bar end link

·         #56 Torx and a 19MM Wrench

·         completely remove nut and tap bolt out

7.        Repeat passenger side

8.        Unbolt sway bar and remove (this really is easier than trying to do it on the vehicle with a pickle fork, and probably takes less time)

·         4 bolts on the top of the front frame

·         15MM (Note: for the rear bolts a 3/8” drive ratchet works best.  It is somewhat tough to get a ½” drive in without possibly damaging you paint)

9.        Remove the sway bar upper link

·         Holding the sway bar upside down, place the bolt on the top of each sway bar link on the piece of wood

·         Put your foot on the bend in the sway bar that is closest to the link you are working on and strike the sway bar with the hammer about 1-2 inches away from the end link.  This should drive the press fitted sway bar end link out of the sway bar.

10.     Repeat other side. 

11.     Replace sway bar on vehicle.  Be sure to snug up bolts but do not tighten.

·         Note: sway bar ends should point up when the bar is held parallel to the bumper

12.     Install sleeves into bushings

·         Lube each reducer sleeve (qty. 4) and each urethane bushing set (qty 4)

·         Using the vice press the reducer sleeve into the bushings.  Be sure to keep even pressure as the bushings are actually two pieces and when the spacer gets to the center it can force the other busing out.

·         Turn the bushing / spacer unit around in the vice and repress to make sure the bushings and spacers are firmly seated.

·         At this point you may want to visually inspect each busing / spacer assembly to make sure the bushings were not distorted or pushed out unevenly.

13.     Return to vehicle and install the upper sway bar link bracket

·         Using the 11/16” lock nut and small washer supplied with the kit

·         Again snug but do not tighten

14.    Repeat passenger side

15.     Install bushing / reducer assembly as follows

·         again snug up but do not tighten

16.     Repeat passenger side

17.     Install lower end link adapters as follows using the supplied ¾” lock nut, bolt, and spacer

·         Note: Make sure as you snug this up that the pin on the bushing does not get stuck in your spring!

18.     Repeat passenger side

19.     Turn bushing pins so that they face each other and align the sway bar.

·         You may have to rock the sway bar up and down to get it to slide side ways

·         Note: the top pin will align slightly toward the inside of the vehicle.  This seems to be normal.

·         Verify alignment is equal on both sides, additional washers can be used as spacers, but keep in mind whatever change you make it to both sides….

20.     Insert disconnect center sections, install snap pins

·         With minimal effort the pins should slide in place and be easy to move around.

21.     Repeat passenger side

22.     Tighten sway bar frame mount bolts

23.     Check to make sure pins still slide freely and do not bind

24.     Tighten 11/16” nut on top of upper adapter.

·         Note: the upper adapter must remain parallel with the side of the vehicle, use a bar or something to keep the adapter from turning when you tighten it.

25.     Check to make sure pins still slide freely and do not bind

·         If pins feel tight or do not slide freely, loosen and retighten the upper bracket as the bracket probably turned past parallel.

26.     Repeat passenger side

27.     Tighten upper bushing bolt

·         Note: bushing bolts do not need to be over tightened, remember you are using a locking nut so it won’t back off.  Simply tighten until you feel good pressure.  Over tightening will cause undo wear on the bushings.

28.     Repeat passenger side

29.     Tighten lower bushing bolt

30.     Repeat passenger side

31.     Check to make sure pins still slide freely and do not bind

32.     Replace front frame cover

33.     Test drive

34.     REMINDER: After driving for 30-50 miles it may be prudent to check and make sure everything is tight and not binding.

35.     Disconnect and flllleeeexxxx….

36.     Reinstalling the pins will get easier as you get used to it, but slightly tapping the sway bar down usually helps.  And always make sure your sway bar is centered, I have noticed that it can slip a little side to side when disconnected.